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← The DC JournalLaser & Skin

How laser hair removal works, and who it works on

The laser heats the hair through its melanin to weaken the follicle. Which skin and hair it works on, and what to expect from one session to the next.

Smooth, even-toned leg resting on a towel, laser hair removal in Laval

The laser sends out light that the melanin in the hair absorbs, and the heat it produces weakens the follicle. It works on most skin, fair or dark with the right device, but only on hair that has colour. After a full protocol, we aim for hair reduction on the order of 80 to 95%.

Tired of the razor, but you've heard it burns, or that it doesn't work on your skin type? It's normal to have questions before you start, whether you're a woman or a man. This guide goes through the ones we get asked at the clinic: how the laser works, how sessions go, choosing where to have it done, and care before and after.

Understanding laser hair removal

What is laser hair removal?

It's a medical technique that lastingly reduces hair using light energy. Wax and razors remove the hair; the laser reaches the follicle at depth and destroys it, without damaging the skin around it.

Several wavelengths exist. Alexandrite (755 nm) is the most effective on fair skin with dark hair, and Nd:YAG (1064 nm) reaches deeper and suits medium to dark skin. Our Clarity II by Lutronic carries both, so we can treat phototypes I through VI on the same device. The most requested areas are legs and underarms, followed by the face and bikini.

What recent devices changed

New-generation devices are faster and safer than those of ten years ago. Settings adjust finely to skin type and sensitivity, and built-in cooling has improved a great deal, which makes the session far more comfortable than it used to be.

That's what widened the audience most. Medium or dark skin, once turned away over burn risk, can now be treated with Nd:YAG, provided the device carries it and the person setting it knows how to use it.

Benefits and limits

After a full protocol, we aim for hair reduction on the order of 80 to 95%, with results that hold for a long time. Compared with waxing, you get time and money back year after year.

MethodAverage annual costDuration of results
LaserHigh up frontLong-term (semi-permanent)
WaxModerate to high3 to 4 weeks
ShavingLow1 to 3 days

The laser has limits too. Because it targets melanin, it does nothing on white, grey, blond or red hair, and maintenance sessions remain necessary. We'd rather tell you before your first session than at your fourth.

Who it is for

Laser hair removal suits most adults whose skin and hair colour allow good light absorption. The best results go to dark, thick hair, though recent devices have widened eligibility.

We don't do it during pregnancy, or with certain skin conditions or photosensitizing medication. The typical profile runs from someone who wants to stop shaving every other day to a man who wants his back or chest treated. Male demand has grown a lot in recent years, which is why the offer exists for women and for men.

Myths and misconceptions

Is it dangerous? No, not on healthy skin, when performed by a qualified person on a properly set device. Thanks to cooling, pain stays moderate, and burn risk is low in a serious setting.

What about hair growing back faster, or thicker? No again. That idea comes from shaving, which cuts the hair flat and makes it feel coarser when it returns. The laser weakens the follicle a little more with each session.

The steps of a session, from first meeting to follow-up

The process happens in steps. Knowing them ahead of time spares you unpleasant surprises.

The consultation and initial assessment

We start with an assessment. We look at your skin and hair to determine phototype, colour and thickness, because those are what dictate the settings.

A medical questionnaire flags contraindications (medication, skin conditions, pregnancy). We then talk about your expectations, the area to treat and the number of sessions to plan for.

The questions you'll be asked:

  • Have you ever had an allergic reaction?
  • Which methods have you already tried?
  • Are you taking photosensitizing medication?

Preparing before the session

Preparation matters as much as the settings. Avoid tanning and self-tanner, and stop waxing or electric epilation at least four weeks beforehand, since the laser needs the hair in its follicle to reach it. Shave the area 24 to 48 hours before your session.

Also avoid:

  • Photosensitizing perfumes and creams
  • Abrasive scrubs
  • Sun exposure

A good share of the incidents we hear about elsewhere come from rushed preparation rather than from the device.

How the session goes

We clean the area, then everyone in the room puts on protective eyewear. The laser is set according to your phototype and hair characteristics.

The pulses are precise, and the sensation is like a light tingle or a brief warmth. Duration depends on the area: count about 45 minutes for full legs, and under 10 minutes for an upper lip.

Care right after

A repair cream with panthenol or aloe soothes the skin. Redness or slight swelling is common and usually clears within hours.

For 24 hours, avoid sun and irritating products on the area. We also recommend:

  • No makeup on the face for 24 h
  • Do not pick at any small scabs
  • SPF 50 sunscreen if you go out

You can return to normal activities the next day, barring an unusual reaction.

Follow-up and planning the next sessions

Sessions are spaced 4 to 8 weeks apart depending on the area and hair density. A full protocol averages 8 sessions, sometimes up to 12; the number varies from person to person. That interval catches hair in its active growth phase, the only time the laser can reach it.

SessionEstimated reduction
1 to 210 to 30%
3 to 540 to 70%
6 to 880 to 95%

Side effects, and what to do

The most common are redness and itching, sometimes small scabs, which normally clear within 48 hours.

A burn, swelling or a pigment spot that won't go away? Call the clinic right away rather than waiting for your next appointment. Serious incidents stay rare when the protocol is respected.

A medical esthetician passes the laser handpiece over the leg of a seated client

How to choose where to have it done

Clinics have multiplied, and they aren't all equal. Here's what we'd look at in your place.

Who holds the handpiece

This is the first criterion by a wide margin. Ask about the training of the person treating you and their experience with your phototype. Here, laser hair removal is performed by our medical estheticians, and one of our nurses does laser work as well.

Most reported accidents come from a bad setting rather than from the device itself.

The device, and its upkeep

A serious clinic uses approved devices and has them serviced. Ask the name of the laser and the date of its last service. These are perfectly normal questions, and a serious clinic answers them without hesitating.

A device carrying two wavelengths and good cooling reduces side effects and makes the session bearable.

Hygiene and the setting

Disinfection protocols must be strict, with a full cleaning between each client. Look at how clean the rooms and accessories are when you walk in.

A calm, clean space shows the same care you'd expect in how the device is set.

The price of the full protocol

Before starting, you should know what the full protocol costs, not just the first session. Here, the Unlimited Zones plan is $497/mo for women and $697/mo for men, taxes extra, and what you need to do to qualify is written on the offer page.

Informed consent, aftercare sheets and the ability to reach the team after a session are also part of the agreement.

Why a medico-aesthetic clinic

A medico-aesthetic clinic offers medical oversight and a protocol adapted to your skin. The devices are more complete, and follow-up runs from assessment to well after the treatment.

It's also where you'll be told no when that's the answer. Blond hair can't be treated, and neither can freshly tanned skin.

Advice and precautions, before and after

Before the first session

Stop waxing and electric epilation at least four weeks before your first appointment, to keep intact the follicle the laser needs.

Avoid any sun exposure on the area to be treated, because tanned skin raises the risk of pigment disturbance. Also tell us about all the medication you take, especially photosensitizing treatments.

If you have a dermatological history, we adapt the protocol instead of applying the standard recipe.

Getting the most from the treatment

Stick to the session schedule. It's the factor that weighs most on the result, even ahead of the device. Moisturize your skin regularly, before and between sessions.

On the day of your appointment, put no makeup or irritating product on the area.

Skin reactions after a session

Redness and slight swelling are normal, and a repair cream with panthenol or aloe calms them quickly.

Watch for unusual spots, blisters or itching. If it lasts more than 48 hours, call us or see someone. Most mild effects clear within two days.

What to avoid afterwards

No sauna, steam room, pool or hot bath for at least 48 hours, because maceration raises the risk of irritation.

Don't expose the treated area to sun without protection, and limit intense sport and friction while the skin settles.

Long-term maintenance

Once the protocol is done, we plan maintenance sessions, generally one or two a year depending on regrowth. Hormonal changes can restart hair growth and call for an adjustment.

That's one of the reasons the Unlimited Zones plan exists: it includes maintenance instead of billing it back to you per session.

A bare arm and shoulder, smooth skin after a series of laser hair removal sessions

Risks, benefits and results

Benefits, short and long term

The first change many people notice, from the first few sessions, is the end of ingrown hairs and razor irritation.

Long term, you get back the time of a weekly chore, and the money for wax and blades stays in your pocket.

Risks and side effects

Like any aesthetic procedure, laser hair removal carries risks. The most frequent are short-lived: redness or slight swelling, sometimes itching, gone within 48 hours on average.

Serious incidents, such as a burn or pigment disturbance, stay rare when the protocol is respected. Risk rises with sun exposure and self-medication, two things you have control over.

What makes results vary

Hair colour and thickness count, as do skin type, age and the area treated. Sticking to the schedule counts just as much.

Hormonal shifts, during pregnancy or at menopause, can restart regrowth. We then adjust the protocol, since not everyone responds the same way.

Compared with other methods

The laser stands out from pulsed light, wax and razors in how long the result lasts. Pulsed light is less targeted and needs more sessions for less reduction. Wax and shaving remove hair without reducing anything.

MethodDuration of resultsAverage annual cost
Laser hair removalYears, with maintenanceHigh but amortized
Wax3 to 4 weeksModerate
Shaving2 to 3 daysLow

The questions we get

Does it hurt? It depends on the area, but most people describe a brief tingle. The cooling helps a lot.

Is it safe on dark skin? Yes, with Nd:YAG, which reaches the follicle without stopping at the melanin in the skin. It comes down to wavelength and settings.

What about over a tattoo? No. We don't pass the hair-removal laser over a tattoo, because the ink absorbs the energy and can cause a burn. We work around the area.

Can it be done in summer? Yes, provided you aren't tanned and you protect the area between sessions.

Want to know where you stand? An assessment is enough: we look at your skin and hair, then tell you what the laser can do in your case. That's where it starts, for women and for men.

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